Repairing Squeakes in Solid Hardwood Floor Boards
>See this article on eliminating squeakes in engineered hardwood floors
Floors squeak when floor boards rub against each other or against
the nails securing them to the subfloor. Hardwood floors squeak if
they haven't been nailed properly. Normal changes in wood make some
squeaking inevitable, although noisy floors sometimes indicate serious
structural problems. If an area of a floor is soft or excessively
squeaky, inspect the framing and the foundation supporting the floor.Whenever
possible, fix squeaks from underneath the floor.
If you can access floor joists from underneath, drive wood screws
up through the subfloor to draw hardwood flooring and the subfloor
together. Drill pilot holes and make certain the screws aren't long
enough to break through the top of the floorboards. Determine the
combined thickness of the floor and subfloor by measuring at cutouts
for pipes.
When you can't reach the floor from underneath, surface-nail the
floor boards to the subfloor with ring-shank flooring nails. Drill
pilot holes close to the tongue-side edge of the board and drive
the nails at a slight angle to increase their holding power. Whenever
pos¬sible, nail into studs. Countersink the nails with a nail
set and fill the holes with tinted wood putty.
Eliminate squeaks in hardwood floors with graphite powder, talcum
powder, powdered soap, mineral oil, or liquid wax. Remove dirt
and deposits from joints, using a putty knife. Apply graphite powder,
talcum powder, powdered soap, or mineral oil between squeaky boards.
Bounce on the boards to work the lubricant into the joints. Clean
up excess powder with a damp cloth. Liquid wax is another option,
although some floor finishes, such as urethane and varnish, are
not compatible with wax, so check with the flooring manufacturer.
Use a clean cloth to spread wax over the noisy joints, forcing
the wax deep into the joints.
In an unfinished basement or crawl space, copper water pipes are
usually hung from floor joists. Listen for pipes rubbing against
joists. Loosen or replace wire pipe hangers to silence the noise.
Pull the pointed ends of the hanger from the wood, using a hammer
or pry bar. Lower the hanger just enough so the pipe isn't touching
the joist, making sure the pipe is held firmly so it won't vibrate.
Renail the hanger, driving the pointed end straight into the wood
The boards or sheeting of a subfloor can separate from the joists,
creating gaps. Where gaps are severe or appear above several neighboring
joists, the fram¬ing may need reinforcement, but isolated gapping
can usually be remedied with hardwood shims. Apply a small amount
of wood glue to the shim and squirt some glue into the gap. Using
a hammer, tap the shim into place until it's snug. Shimming too
much will widen the gap, so be careful. Allow the glue to dry before
walking on the floor.
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